Antioquia: The Painted Town

For about an hour of grueling Lima traffic, Pulga the dog, my husband Ivo, and gringa me hunkered in a back seat and entrusted the friend driving the car with our lives. Pulga got carsick and puked. Ivo started advising me on how to stop Pulga from puking. I tried to sooth our sad, goobering…

Pachamanca in Mala

Driving the hour to Mala is always worth all 60 minutes of our fluffy dog-child squirming on my lap. But back when you still needed a jacket to stand outside, Michael and Silvia and a slightly smaller Bastian invited us for something extra special. We were going to do a “pachamanca.” Pachamanca is what I’d roughly…

Staycation in Truquillo

This summer, my husband and I took our fluffy dog-child on a vacation. We woke up early, piled the whole family into the car, and started driving north. We exited artsy little Barranco, inched our way through deadly city traffic, and finally burst out onto the open one-way highway threading through the desert. A few hours…

Caral: The New World’s Egypt

Early one lovely Peruvian morning, Ivo and I swiped a bag of sweet rolls from a highway bakery and hit the Pan-American highway. The dusty yellow shops along the side of the road became fewer and fewer and finally disappeared. Our radio began to fuzz out as we curved farther into the mountains. Eventually, the…

Ica: An Oasis in the Desert (Literally)

The last stop on the Federle family expedition across Peru was a tiny little desert oasis in Ica. This shady, greenery-wrapped body of still water in the middle of the desert met the stereotype (minus the colorful paddle boats). After grabbing breakfast at a local restaurant, Chrissi and Ivo grabbed a paddle boat for about…

Paracas: Ocean to Desert

Paracas is home to my new favorite oxymoron: the tropical desert. It is, thus far, the best example I’ve seen of how intensely and vibrantly varied this country is. Our touring adventure began with a ten minute (or less) mini-bus ride to the docks, where we boarded a ferry and strapped on our orange life…