Pachamanca in Mala

Driving the hour to Mala is always worth all 60 minutes of our fluffy dog-child squirming on my lap. But back when you still needed a jacket to stand outside, Michael and Silvia and a slightly smaller Bastian invited us for something extra special. We were going to do a “pachamanca.” Pachamanca is what I’d roughly…

Brace Yourself: I Tried to Cook

My husband turns eight-legged ocean demons into seafood. Like, amazing seafood. In a bizarre hundred-step process of washing, boiling, freezing, scrubbing, salting, and probably some weird ritual dance, Ivo takes a tough, rubbery octopus corpse and produces delicious, crispy, garlic-infused grilled tentacles, cheerful pulpo de olivo, and bright octopus ceviche with a spicy ají kick. He’s…

Being Baby-less in Peru

Babies are like giraffes. Giraffes are really cool. I like giraffes a lot, actually. Giraffes are great when they’re in acceptable public spaces. Giraffes can even be fine at parties, as long as it’s a safe, open space where there’s room for a giraffe to do giraffe things. Giraffes are so cool that I completely…

La Panetteria

For about four years back in high school and college, I was pescatarian (no meat, but fish is ok). Giving up meat wasn’t a big deal for me. I mean, I missed bacon, but tofu is pretty fun. Carbs, on the other hand, you’ll have to rip from my cold, dead hands. Actually, let’s be real. I’m not dying…

Día de la Madre

My mom loved the ocean. Every vacation, she was the vibrant ringleader of our family circus: She led us into new restaurants, into weird museums, into new stores and bizarre highway attractions. She hustled us into clothes, herded us into the car, and marched us all outward into the world and onto marvelous adventures. But at…

Guinea Pigs, Cocktails, and Fireworks

It’s my 50th blog post! And guess what?? That handsome couple we got to tour around Peru is now engaged!!! There could be no more appropriate time for cocktails and fireworks. And it’s Peru, so guinea pigs are making an appearance too. I’ve been to Cuzco twice. That was enough for Ivo and me to spend several happy lunches daydreaming…